Alright so today on Repairs101 I’m going
to talk about the basic things you need to know about your chainsaw.
If you’re going to keep it inside, you are going to want to keep it in a container with
a tight fitting lid to contain the smell. Assembly is a snap if you have held onto all
the parts. The main thing I see people doing wrong is putting the chain on backwards. So
once you have that figured out slip the chain over the sprocket as you hang the bar. I am
often asked how snug to torque the bar-mounting hardware. Because there is no torque value
given in the owner’s manual all I can say is tight. Beware not to over-tighten.
Remember to grease the roller tip periodically. You will need one of these grease guns to
do that. To add tension to the chain the bar is pushed
out by this dowel anchored in one of these holes in the bar. Turn the adjusting screw
and tighten the chain until you can only pull out about three to five chain links. Tipping
the saw forward when torquing the mounting nuts ensures that the bar will be pointed
up. Of course the best thing is a brand new chain
straight out of the box but otherwise, you can put your saw in your vice so that the
chain will run freely and then have a go at putting an edge on it with the rat tail file.
Of course, there’s always power tools but all you really need is a flat file and a rat
tail file. Use the markings on your file guide to ensure
you are getting the right angle. If you don’t have a file handle you can make one up in
a jiffy, just so you don’t jab yourself with your file.
Measure a raker’s clearance using a straightedge from the tip of one tooth to the tip of the
next tooth on the same side. The rakers provide a height or clearance for the chain’s teeth
as well as pushing debris from the saw’s kerf.
Mix fuel for your saw according to the manufacture’s specifications. If you run too lean a mixture
or straight gas, you will wear down the exhaust port side of the piston and the combustion
chamber. The motor will run but it won’t make enough compression to do any work so
when you go to cut something it will just stall.
Remember to fill up with chain oil every time you gas up your saw.
Wear any and all the protective equipment you can get your hands on – especially protective
eyewear. Only carry a saw in your right hand with the
bar behind you. Of course this is how you should start your
chainsaw but if you are going to yo-yo start it, there is a right way and a wrong way to
do it. Bucking is when the tip of the saw contacts
something firm and the saw jumps back. If you are holding on with two hands, then the
chain break will engage and you will be fine. I see a lot of people trying to use their
saw like this in a back and forth sawing motion. The grabs are there to dig into the wood and
pivot the saw across and through the cut. You know I take safety very seriously so inside
my hard hat you’ll find I have duct taped a compression bandage for immediate access.